Disclaimer: This blog is a collection of my personal experiences and opinions. While my views are influenced by my work as a nutrition professional, they do not necessarily reflect the opinions and positions of my employers and associations. If there are any concerns regarding the information presented here, please do not hesitate to contact me.

The Great Food Revolution

Thursday, March 26, 2009

greatfoodrevolution_title

One thing very few people know about me is that I LOVE documentaries. Our TV at home is basically permanently on Fairchild TV, the Chinese channel, and on Monday nights they have a show called "NCIX: Magazine 26", which alternates between in-house documentaries (if you understand Chinese, you can watch ones on the impact of the economic crisis on Chinese-Canadians of different age groups and about child care in Canada here) and ones that they've translated from CBC. So I was really pumped last week when I read on are you gonna eat that? that there was going to be a FOUR-PART series on food on CBC called The Great Food Revolution.

The first two parts were on last Thursday, and if you missed it you can go and watch the full episodes on their website. The last two parts are TONIGHT at 8 pm, so if you're living in the eastern part of the country, you should go and turn on your TV RIGHT NOW.

There's very little talk about nutrition - the first two parts were more about the evolution of the food industry; how Canadians went from a meat-and-potatoes society to the way we eat today. I did recognize some names, like Adam Leith Gollner, author of The Fruit Hunters, but learned a lot more new things, like how balsamic vinegar was brought to America by one Dean & Deluca or the existence of Jungle Jim's, a six-acre grocery store, complete with a theatre and a monorail. A lot of people on Twitter after the show was impressed that the Joy of Cooking has sold four times more copies than the Joy of Sex.

The documentary is a fun romp through the food industry, though at times I didn't like the writing (i.e. the unnecessary emphasis on the shape of the coco-de-mer as "mature content") and it sometimes felt like I was watching an extended ad for Loblaws or Hardbite Chips.

I did love watching the segment on how they develop new President's Choice products at Loblaws. It was interesting to hear Maria Sharvat, VP of Product Development, say that to work in R&D for their food products, you have to "love to eat and to cook." I guess in a way it makes me sad that what starts out as a recipe using real ingredients that you can find at the store ends up having all these chemicals and preservatives added to it in the industrial process for economies of scale.

Anyway, the first part of tonight's show is a whole feature on New York and its industrial kitchens - how chefs, bakers, grocers go about feeding the city. The second part is about the "future of food" - Jamie Oliver's in it, and it looks like we're going to be looking at some molecular gastronomy as well. I'm excited, and it's on antennavision too! (Even though we have the much more reliable satellite.)

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Way to keep wasting taxpayers' money, Alberta!

Calgary Herald Mar 26 2009

After staying up till 2 am writing my crazy, long-winded rant last night (sorry if you couldn't make it through guys, I barely did myself.), I woke up to find this headline on the front page of my newspaper. A 25% raise on a $40,000 PART-TIME job?! Are you kidding me? If this were an *actual* job, they would need a performance evaluation before they even got the teeniest raise, and I'm sure if you've asked anyone who's been in the Alberta health care system they would give this team an F.

What's even more ridiculous is the way they're pushing the blame back and forth - Superboard chairman Ken Hughes says Health Minister Ron Liepert determined the honoraria, while an Alberta Health spokesman says Hughes proposed the raise, and Liepert approved it. Either way, there are so many levels at which someone could've said, "Hey look, wait times in hospitals in our two major urban centres are ridiculous! Maybe we should put the money back into the system instead of in our pockets!" Especially if, according to Hughes, "Most of us are not serving for the honoraria. We're serving because we think we can make a big difference."

Some of the comments say that having a part-time superboard is more efficient than having nine full-time regional health boards. Fine, but how come the public is not seeing this money we've supposedly freed up?

Sorry for these angry posts - will get to the fun one I had actually intended to write right now...

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This is a serious post.

I hope you'll excuse my recent absence; I've been gathering my thoughts. Let's get into a story now, shall we?

Calgary kicked off 2008 in a unique way - new regulations came into effect that banned city restaurants from cooking with fats that had a trans fat content of 2% or more. Any margarines and spreads used in the restaurants also had to have a trans fat content of less than 2%. Public health officials, dietitians, doctors, and citizens alike all applauded the city for being a leader in health, as it was the first Canadian city to enforce such a regulation. Even the federal government was slow to take action; in June 2007, Health Minister Tony Clement said it would give food companies two years to voluntarily lower the trans fat in our food supply. Specifically, to decrease the amount of trans fat in our fats and oil to 2% or less and in all other food items to 5% or less.

Since then, the Trans Fat Monitoring Program has been releasing reports on the trans fats in our food supply. Just last month, it found that most packaged products were complying (with compliance ranging from 58 - 91%, depending on the type of product), citing that having to list trans fats on the Nutrition Facts label was probably a motivation. On the other hand, only 43% of bakery products met the 5% limit, and yes, most of them are unlabelled.

Back in Alberta, Premier Steady Eddy and Health Minister Ron Liepert unveiled their plan to improve health care - they decided to get rid of the nine health regions, fire the 127 regional board members, and create a singular health SUPERBOARD! From the beginning, I was skeptical - Calgary's health care system already left more to be desired. I mean, you don't need to be a doctor to see that three adult hospitals and one children's hospital is not enough for a city with over a million people. I felt that the centralized system would make it harder for the city to advocate for better health care.

So far, the superboard hasn't had much to show in terms of lowering wait times and increasing access. It's given hefty severance packages to the former regional heads that they fired, then restructured the whole deal not long after it was in place, only to hand out more severance pay to more people they fired. Now they're running a $700 million operating deficit, which means they might have to close some hospital units before opening other ones (result: zero net increase in beds)

To top all of this off, Liepert has said he's "sick and tired of people whining about not enough health-care facilities in the city." And I thought, "Whatever, dude. You can only say that because you're not Calgarian and you haven't seen the patients that stay in staff lounges without bathrooms, or in the hallways behind dividers at the hospital."

But then I found out he is Calgarian. In fact, he's the MLA for my constituency.

While watching in-flight satellite TV on my way home from Montreal two weeks ago, I learned of another consequence of the superboard - the trans fat ban isn't in effect anymore because the Calgary Health Region, which enforced the regulations, doesn't exist anymore. Though the Calgary Herald claimed that Liepert said he wanted to "extend" the trans fat ban to the rest of the province when it first came out, he was later quoted as saying that he was going to take his cues from Health Canada, and in the mean time, hope that restaurants will voluntarily reduce trans fats.

I was, of course, disappointed. The government had the opportunity to make a gesture to show that they do care about Albertan's health, and they didn't. On top of that, if something like the trans fat ban was eliminated, what other health initiatives been swallowed up by the superboard? Of course, I was prepared for the onslaught of conservative opinion, applauding the government for not "encroaching on our personal freedoms", being a "nanny state", blahblahblah - like I haven't been in this argument before. And as predicted, this came a few days later in the form of Rob Breakenridge's column, "Do you want trans fats or fascism with your fries?"

I think living in such a conservative/Conservative city has influenced my views a bit, and I am actually kind of sitting on the fence when it comes to whether trans fats should be banned (more on that later). What irked me most was his implication that banning trans fats was "an affront to individual choice and freedom". I don't know of anyone who goes out of their way to choose foods high in trans fats. Some people choose to smoke because it relaxes them, or because of peer pressure, or because they're way addicted already, whatever. People choose to drink because they want to get drunk. But show me someone who can tell the difference between something fried in trans fats and something fried in other fats!

Breakenridge then tried to convince readers that trans fats aren't actually that bad by citing a group called the American Council on Science and Health. Names like this raise a red flag in my mind; I mean, did you know that the Council for Responsible Nutrition was a trade association for supplement manufacturers, or that the Center for Consumer Freedom is a coalition of restaurants, food companies, and (probably conservative) consumers? It didn't take much digging to find out what the ACSH is really about.

So, I ran the risk of another rerun of the "He sounded serious" debacle, and wrote a letter to the Herald.

Apparently, despite their "minuscule budget", the ACSH is one of those organizations that watches the Internet like a hawk to make sure no one is tarnishing their name (See: SCIENTOLOGY and ...I'm not going to say his name here because my friend almost got sued!) So it didn't take long for Gilbert Ross, medical director of the ACSH (and isn't he quite the character himself), to write a letter in response to my letter. I was relieved that he didn't succeed in making me sound stupid.

He says, "We protect the interests of consumers based on sound science." Sorry, what interests are you protecting when you go out and say, "No, no, there's actually no risk, everything's ok." Our interest in making sure our tax dollars are going to useful programs? OK, I can give you that. Our interest in not paying more when restaurants have to start switching to healthy fats? OK, fine, you can have that one too. But when was money my only interest? According to Facebook, my interests include 3/4 time signatures and pockets.

After living in Hong Kong, I think Canadians and Americans take for granted that we have a safe food supply. There's a huge locavore movement here which would never happen in China or Hong Kong (though they do eat a lot of local produce and livestock), because there, you never know if your milk has been spiked with melamine or if your steamed buns are stuffed with cardboard. I think having a safe food supply implies that it doesn't contain substances that kill us, whether it's in the form of food poisoning, or of substances like pesticides, herbicides, or trans fats that kill us slowly over time. If there's doubts about an additive that might be in my food, I'd define "protecting consumer interests" as erring on the side of caution rather than finding out in the long run that it shouldn't have been in my food in the first place. That's exactly what happened with trans fats. People knew saturated fats were bad, so they thought "What if we took unsaturated fats and changed them so they were *like* saturated fats? That wouldn't be so bad, right?" WRONG. And now people like that it's cheap and that it doesn't go rancid and won't let the government fix its mistake.

Ross goes on to say that the "'no trans fat mantra' is... distract[ing] consumers from other unhealthy food ingredients, especially highly calorie-dense foods that contribute much more to the problem of obesity." All right. It really frustrates me that the relationship between food and health has been dumbed down to weight gain vs. weight loss. I was actually reading about the Guinness Diet (no food, only Guinness, plus a glass of milk and a vitamin C supplement) for a presentation on diet myths not too long ago. I can't find the link I was looking at now, but it was saying how a man named Mike Burt tried it and lost 9 lb, and the comments were like "Oh wow! I guess Guinness is healthy!" How could it not have occurred to people that he probably lost all that weight because he was malnourished?

In the case of the trans fat issue, trans fats don't contribute to obesity any more than other types of fats. All contain 9 calories per gram. If someone swapped all the trans fats in a cookie for some other kind of fat, it would still have the same amount of calories. This isn't about the obesity crisis, it's about heart disease risk.

In the end, I wasn't the only one dissing the ACSH in the Herald. Maya Charlebois, the president of the Alberta Public Health Association, also wrote in to say the same thing. I wonder if Ross wrote her a letter too.

I recently read a paper that came out of the Rudd Centre at Yale showing the parallels in the marketing strategy of the food industry and the tobacco industry. Some of these strategies are:

  • Focus on personal responsibility as the cause of the nation’s unhealthy
    diet.
  • Raise fears that government action usurps personal freedom.
  • Vilify critics with totalitarian language, characterizing them as
    the food police, leaders of a nanny state, and even “food fascists,”
    and accuse them of desiring to strip people of their civil liberties.
  • Criticize studies that hurt industry as “junk science.”
  • Emphasize physical activity over diet.
  • State there are no good or bad foods; hence no food or food type
    (soft drinks, fast foods, etc.) should be targeted for change.
  • Plant doubt when concerns are raised about the industry.
I don't know whether to laugh or cry at the fact that it's not just the food industry that's saying these things, but just about anyone who sits on the right side of the political spectrum. So where do I sit when it comes to a trans fat ban? Do I think trans fats should be removed from our food supply? Yes. Do I think trans fats are the most important health issue, or even nutrition issue, for that matter? No. Do I think the government should step in and ban trans fats? Not necessarily, but I think the government should create an environment that will "force" trans fats out of our food supply. 

We're already seeing food manufacturers reduce the amount of trans fats in a lot of packaged goods because it has to be listed on the label. Some large franchises, which use standardized recipes and have the money to get their foods lab tested, have also moved towards reducing the trans fats in their food. The problem is, lots of foods that don't need to be labelled as thoroughly contain trans fats, and it's not just fried chicken or fries at a fast food place. Do you start your day with a coffee and a muffin, croissant, or other pastry? Order fried shrimp at a fancy seafood restaurant and then cap off the meal with a slice of pie? You could be eating trans fats. I think we already get the gist of why trans fats aren't good for us - in addition to raising "bad" LDL cholesterol, like saturated fats, it also decreases "good" HDL cholesterol, further increasing our risk of heart disease. The crux of the situation now is that we need to start caring and being more alert. It frustrates me when people say they are concerned with their health, but then have no qualms about making chicken wings for dinner every night or slathering cauliflower with new, fancy, high-fat and high-sodium products

Big chain restaurants and food companies can afford to have their nutrition information, so ask to see it. Mom & Pop restaurants can't afford it, but I'm sure they'll be more than happy to tell you what kinds of fats they're using. Vote with your fork. Stop going to restaurants and bakeries that use trans fats and stop buying products that have trans fats. Obviously, the market is going to be slower than the government coming along and being like "NO TRANS FATS ALLOWED." But maybe, just maybe, if we all started caring about what we're buying and what we're putting in our mouths instead of being tempted by all the products and recipes that the food industry rolls out to grab our attention, they will start caring too. If the government is going to be spending money on a nutrition program, I think it should be on making it easier for us to know what's in our food, whether it's tougher nutrition labelling laws, or better health education curricula, so that it's easier for us to sway the market. If we don't end up with a safer, healthier food supply, then governments should go in and start being tougher on regulations. We have universal health care in Canada, and I think that includes preventative health measures in addition to paying for beds, hospitals, health care workers, and medication. I am disappointed that we don't have a trans fat ban anymore, but right now, I don't think Alberta Health Services should be working on a new one because it has more pressing issues, like paying off its debts so that it can work on lowering wait times and creating more beds and more jobs. Unfortunately, it hasn't been doing that. It's been spending money on severance packages.

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Last meal in Montreal: Ramen... YA!!!

Saturday, March 21, 2009

Yasai @ Ramen-Ya

Yes, yes, I know, "ya" is actually 屋, or building/shop, in Japanese. And to me, ramen is usually nothing to go "Ya!" about, even when it doesn't cost 99¢ and comes in the form of a brick with an accompanying packet of flavoured salt. I just don't know what it is about me and ramen; often I just find it too soggy and about two bites in I regret ordering it.

So how did we end up in Ramen-Ya, a hole-in-the-wall ramen place on St-Laurent?

Ezra had suggested that we go for sushi, though I'm not sure if he wanted some or if he just felt bad that we didn't have any in New York. But where would we go for our sushi fix in a city known for having more misses than hits? Ezra had tried Odaki, an all-you-can-eat place just half a block from his apartment and didn't like it. Tataki was just takeout, and we wanted to have a place to sit. I remembered passing by a nice looking sushi restaurant further down St-Laurent, but upon seeing that the windows were emblazoned with "Szechuan Sushi", I didn't want to take the risk. Recalling the little shop we passed by on the way to Bagel Etc, Ezra suggested that we try there.

Ramen-Ya is run by a Chinese family. The decor has a sort of modern, minimalist feel with just the right touch of Japanese, and smooth jazz plays softly from the speakers. The waiter was pleasant and took our coats before giving us time to browse the menu. I don't know why we both ended up not ordering sushi... perhaps the selection was too limited, or it was too expensive. I was certainly surprised that even Ezra went for a bowl of ramen, because—if you recall—he doesn't like noodles in soup.

Chashu-men @ Ramen-Ya

The ramen menu is also very simple; you choose your "topping" - tonkotsu (breaded pork), chashu (the Japanese version of char siu, or BBQ pork... it's sliced more thinly than the Chinese version), grilled chicken, beef (?), or Yasai (vegetarian with soy chicken) - then your broth, shoyu (soy sauce), miso, curry, or spicy. You can't choose your broth with the Yasai option though. Also for a couple more cents you can ask for extra vegetable, extra noodles, no noodles, etc. The noodles are served with shakers of shichimi (Japanese spice) and fried garlic.

As you can see from the photo up top, I chose the yasai, which I *loved* because it was packed with vegetables - bean sprouts, carrot and zucchini ribbons, seaweed... even an asparagus wrapped in zucchini! The noodles also had a sort of springy texture and were not soggy at all. The broth wasn't too salty and was very delicious. The one disappointment was the soy chicken - it didn't have the right texture and had a sort of sweet taste to it which I didn't like. The large soy slabs were the only things left in a pool of broth at the end of my meal.

Ezra got the chashu-men in shoyu broth, which he seemed to enjoy. He gave me a bite of the chashu, which was flavoured really nicely. I wonder if they make it in-house or if they buy it somewhere...

All in all it was a nice, filling meal in a cozy environment at an affordable price. Plus, Ezra made a good call by ordering us a pot of tea (I think they charge per head though), which came with mismatched Japanese pottery cups. If you're a ramen fan, you should check it out; would love to try their sushi and gyoza next time.

Ramen-Ya
4274 Blvd St-Laurent
Montreal QC
(514) 286-3832

Ramen Ya on Urbanspoon

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Dinner Date at La Caverne Grecque

Friday, March 20, 2009

Cheap Date

It was my last night in Montreal and we'd spent most of the afternoon sitting and working at a café with free internet. We'd thought about checking out one of the BYOW Portuguese places in the neighbourhood, but hadn't had time to actually get wine at an SAQ.

"Where should we go for supper then?" Ezra asked.
"How about La Caverne Grecque?" I suggested, half-jokingly.

See, Ezra had bragged about the 15% off coupon he had gotten at Cinema du Parc, and he'd never got the chance to use it. It was also a BYOW place, on the corner of Prince-Arthur and Coloniale, right near the SAQ on St-Laurent.

Unfortunately, when we got to the SAQ we realized that it had already closed at 7:30, (Yes, this is how late we were eating) so our next option was the dep on St-Laurent.

15% off coupon and dep wine. Oh, I'm a cheap date.

The eateries on that pedestrian-only stretch of Prince-Arthur are known for their dinner specials and being BYOW, perfect for starving students (or freelancing bums) to take their dates. In the past, Ezra and I have been to Mazurka, the Polish restaurant (great borscht) and La Cabane Grecque. Two popular pubs, Café Campus and Vol de Nuit, are also on that strip.

Our waiter was a nice old fellow who was very impressed with our 15% off coupon and called his boss over to figure out what the restrictions were. We couldn't order anything off their "Surf & Turf" promotion, but we were allowed to order from the table d'hôte menu, where the meals came with soup, salad, an entrée, then dessert, and coffee or tea, most for under $20. Ezra and I made different choices for everything, though I'm not sure if it was by coincidence or his knowledge of the fact I don't like ordering the same thing as someone at a restaurant (especially if it's someone whom I can easily steal off their plate.)

Lentil Soup @ La Caverne Grecque Barley Vegetable Soup @ La Caverne Grecque

The soups of the night were Lentil and Barley Vegetable. I chose the lentil, hoping it wouldn't be as salty, but it turns out I was wrong. It was a tomato lentil soup that ended up being more salty than Ezra's barley vegetable. Both were still pretty good, though not very photogenic.

Tossed Salad @ La Caverne Grecque

Tossed salads are always a gamble because sometimes you're presented with a plate piled high with iceberg lettuce and (if you're lucky) a few wedges of not-in-season tomatoes, but other times they get a little more creative and throw some different vegetables in there. This one was pretty good. Ezra got the caesar.

March 2009 (78)

Then our food came! I know this photo is blurry but I love how happy Ezra looks with his steak (and Greek sausages).

Grilled Chicken & Shrimp @ La Caverne Grecque

I got grilled chicken breast and shrimp. I was very impressed by the chicken, which was very flavourful and not very dry. Everything else was good too, except I was puzzled by how they got the potatoes to have that weird outer coating.

Turtle Cheesecake @ La Caverne Grecque Chocolate Mousse Cake @ La Caverne Grecque

I rarely order dessert anymore, so having dessert included in our meals was a real treat. The slices of cake (cheesecake for me, chocolate mousse cake for him) were just the perfect size that it satisfied our cravings without feeling like we were stuffing ourselves. I was pleasantly surprised that my cheesecake turned out to be a nutty Turtle cheesecake, and the fact that the waiter brought me two tea bags—Red Rose tea or green tea—for me to choose from with my dessert.

We were rushing to meet some friends for drinking, so Ezra was hesitant about taking his leftover steak to go. "Take it," the waiter said, "It's good meat." I don't really remember if Ezra had it by the end of the night... it was a good one.

Oh, and the "Truly Grape"? That was good too.

La Caverne Grecque
105 Rue Prince-Arthur E
Montreal QC
(514) 844-5114

Caverne Grecque (la) on Urbanspoon

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Saturday Brunch at Réservoir

Wednesday, March 18, 2009

Saturday Brunch @ Reservoir
Feel free to click and see this photo in large or original size to take a look at the menu.

When I first visited Ezra's apartment in October, I noted that his apartment was right across Réservoir, a name that keeps popping up on the Quebec Chowhound boards. We both assumed that it was fancy, so we never went there until my first night in Montreal, when my friend Bernard suggested it when a not-so-good punk band was playing at Ezra's usual haunt, Barfly, forcing a venue change.

We were all impressed to find out that Réservoir's also a microbrewery, with fairly reasonable prices. As you can see on the menu board, pints are only $5 if you get there before 8 pm.

I'd mentioned to Ezra that we should go for brunch there before I went on my trip, and was pleasantly surprised when he said that he was taking me there one Saturday morning. The place was buzzing with activity, so we sat ourselves at a bar, where Ezra ordered himself a coffee, then proceeded to watch the dining room like hawks until a couple left from a table by the window.

Coffee @ Reservoir

The menu was a little hard to navigate because it's all in French, but we eventually managed and were rewarded with crispy, warm toasted baguettes with cubes of butter.

Bread & Butter @ Reservoir

I'd been craving poached eggs, and was happy to find it on the menu, alongside "Saumon gravlax, purée d'avocat avec yuzu kosho et pain au maïs" Interestingly, I'm not a fan of Eggs Benny because I don't like hollandaise sauce.

Gravlax, poached egg, avocado purée with yuzu kosho, cornbread and cured meat @ Reservoir
No one told me I was going to get a slab of cured meat.

I actually found out what yuzu kosho was not too long ago from Serious Eats - it's yuzu (a type of Asian citrus fruit) rinds ground into hot pepper and salt. I definitely could taste that familiar hint of citrus in the avocado purée, but with all that salt from the gravlax (cured salmon) and cured meat, overall I felt the dish was a little too salty, and I wished that I'd ordered something that was warm.

Ezra's dish certainly was.

Braised pork flank in veal jus with Brussels sprouts "embeurrée" and Moutarde de Meaux @ Reservoir

He ordered a "Flanc de porc braisé, embeurrée de choux de bruxelle, sauce au jus de veau et moutarde de meaux" The pork was tender and flavourful, and the Brussels sprouts (which also had flecks of carrot in them) were very buttery. Even Ezra liked the Brussels sprouts, and he hates Brussels sprouts... guess I'll have to start learning how to "embeurrer" them.

Our service was pretty good, considering we were speaking English in such a francophone atmosphere (though many other patrons were speaking English as well), except Ezra was a little frustrated that the waiter just left us sitting there after he took our food away and we struggled a little to get his attention again to give us the bill. I still had a great time though, and I think Réservoir's a great place for brunch for someone who wants to go beyond the usual bacon-and-eggs fare.

Reservoir


Réservoir
9 Ave Duluth E
Montreal QC
(514) 849-7779

Reservoir on Urbanspoon

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Bagel Etc.

Tuesday, March 17, 2009

Sneaky
How I can put two photos of me without makeup on my blog in the span of half a week is beyond me

I'd first heard of Bagel Etc. from my friend Kevin (not the one who lives in Brooklyn), but seeing as how I was living by Atwater at the time and Bagel Etc. was all the way up in the Plateau, it would be pretty unreasonable for me to make the long trek up there just for a weekend brunch... even if it's right across from Leonard Cohen's apartment.

Fortunately, Ezra's current apartment is pretty much in (on?) the Plateau, so we made a couple trips there while I was visiting him in Montreal. He tries to avoid it though, because they charge you separately for coffee - a no-no in his books.

On our first trip there, I'd been pretty much "egged out" from having scrambled eggs for breakfast almost every day at the apartment. I quickly learned that it's basically impossible to order anything without eggs if you're looking at the breakfast/brunch menu, so I got some "hidden" egg in the form of "Sucrée-Salé" - challah French toast with your choice of sausage, ham, and bacon (I got the sausage since I'm a sausage fiend.)

Sucrée-Salé @ Bagels Etc.

The French toast was nice and tender... often when I make French toast the egg mixture just coats the surface, but here it was completely soaked through without being too soggy. So delicious with a drizzle of maple syrup. My sausages were great too, but nothing compared to the knackwurst that Ezra got with his "L'Europe de l'est":

L'Europe de l'est @ Bagel Etc.

L'Europe de l'est comes with your choice of knackwurst (mild) or a spicy sausage (pepper-something, I think), eggs any style, potatoes, homemade sauerkraut, and mustard.

The knackwurst was really good (inspiring a Hungarian sausage + German beer dinner we had later that week), especially with the mustard, which was very horseradish-y (was it here that the mustard was horseradish-y or somewhere else?). The real kicker was the sauerkraut though - nice and sweet, not sour at all.

On our second trip, we arrived pretty late in the day because Daylight Savings totally threw us off and we had trouble getting up any time before noon. I ordered the "St. Viateur" from the "lunch" menu, which is essentially bagels and lox. The "Fairmont" is actually the same, except on black Russian bread - are they trying to tell us something?

Le St-Viateur @ Bagels Etc.

My friend Stephen asked me after my Murray's Bagels post whether I like New York or Montreal bagels more. I've decided that I do like Montreal bagels more because I find that there's more flavour to them, as opposed to just a mouthful of starch. What I *don't* like, however, is how the city seems to default to sesame seed bagels. What's wrong with poppy seeds? (Other than the fact that I almost *always* get them stuck in my teeth.)

Ezra went for the Classique, which is really just eggs any style, potatoes, your choice of toasted challah, black Russian bread or bagel, and your choice of sausage, ham, or bacon (he went for the bacon, naturally.)

Le Classique @ Bagels Etc.

In addition to the awesome food combos, there's always a stack of papers (The Gazette and the Globe and Mail) at the entrance for you to read while you wait for your food or even while you're eating. Also take the time to admire the restaurant's kitschy decor; it's got a lot of memorabilia from when it used to be called Cookie's Restaurant, including a giant sign, and nameplates at different tables for regulars (?)

Bagel Etc.
4320 Boulevard St-Laurent
Montreal QC
(514) 845-9462

Bagel Etc on Urbanspoon

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Tweak, tweak (Spicy Brownies)

Spicy Brownies Take 1: The Spice Rack

For two guys living on a fairly tiny budget, Ezra and his roommate have a pretty impressive tea and spice rack. No less because parts of it were inherited from my collection when I moved away from Montreal in October, including a bottle of ancho chili powder that I've only used once, in an attempt to make a spicy chocolate cake for a friend's birthday.

My friend Theo had a dinner party while I was in town, which was a wonderful affair - all the guests (there were six of us, but Ezra and I came as one) brought a bottle of wine and we spent the night chatting more about SSMU than is probably healthy. Either way, Theo prepared a delicious meal that started with a salad with an amazing dressing (which he didn't have the recipe for because he got it at a restaurant :( ) and an impressive lasagna that had 12 spicy Italian sausages in it.

Prior to all this, I received a text message five-and-a-half hours before the dinner was slated to start:

"You can bring dessert if you want"

Unlike his well-stocked spice and tea shelf, Ezra's baking pan shelf is a little more paltry - there was a roasting pan with a lid, a glass 9 x 13" pan, a slightly smaller foil pan, a baking sheet too large for his tiny gas oven, and two pizza pans kept below the oven that were covered in grease.

I scrolled through my Google reader for brownie and blondie recipes (because really, what else can you make in a rectangular pan?) but every time I come across a recipe that calls for espresso powder or baking squares, I can't help but run back to my basic brownie recipe, which gets all its chocolaty goodness from cocoa powder. Some of you might recognize it as the base for my cupbrowniecheesecakes.

To make things a little interesting, I decided to peruse the spice rack, adding in a bit of that smoky ancho chili powder, some cinnamon, and a dash of nutmeg to the recipe.

Spicy Brownies Take 2: Ancho Chili Powder


Spicy Brownies Take 1: The Batter Spicy Brownies Take 1: The Cleanup Spicy Brownies Take 1: The Finished Product


Ezra pointed out that my brownies hadn't risen very much, and I blamed it on his finicky gas stove (I had it set at 350°, but it didn't seem want to go above 250°). Still the brownies turned out to be delicious, and I remembered the amount of spice I used, so I could make another batch for a potluck had in Ste-Anne (where McGill's Agricultural & Environmental Sciences campus is), except this time, I upped the amount of cocoa in hopes of making it more like dark chocolate than milk chocolate.

Spicy Brownies Take 2: Pouring the batter into the pan Spicy Brownies Take 2: Pouring the batter into the pan Spicy Brownies Take 2: Pouring the batter into the pan Spicy Brownies Take 2: Pouring the batter into the pan Spicy Brownies Take 2: Pouring the batter into the pan
Spicy Brownies Take 2: Pouring the batter into the pan Spicy Brownies Take 2: Pouring the batter into the pan Spicy Brownies Take 2: Pouring the batter into the pan Spicy Brownies Take 2: Pouring the batter into the pan Spicy Brownies Take 2: Pouring the batter into the pan


I watched the oven closely this time, setting it at 500°, only to find that now the oven went up to that temperature, so I had to leave the door wide open to allow it to quickly descend to 350°, and then slam the door shut to keep it from getting any colder. I later found out that my brownies probably weren't rising because even though I'd doubled the rest of the recipe, I'd forgotten to double the baking powder (Doh!)

Ezra and I travelled in style to the potluck, where it was great to see all my old friends. The potluck was *so good*; my friends are great cooks and there was a variety of dishes, including a thick potato soup, two rice-based dishes, a spicy bean dish, salad, pasta, and roasted vegetables. My brownies were also well-received, but overshadowed by my friend Annise's luscious chocolate cake, in which her and her boyfriend jokingly hid a hard-boiled egg (their plan was foiled when we decided to cut all the cake first before serving it, so the top of the slice came off, revealing the egg.)
Spicy Brownies
Adapted from AllRecipes.com
Makes 1 9 x 13" pan (and halves well into a 8 x 8" pan)
  • 250 mL (1 cup) butter
  • 250 mL (1 cup) brown sugar
  • 125 mL (½ cup) granulated sugar
  • 4 eggs
  • 5 mL (1 tsp) vanilla extract
  • 185 mL (¾ cup) unsweetened cocoa powder
  • 250 mL (1 cup) all-purpose flour
  • 2 mL (½ tsp) salt
  • 2 mL (½ tsp) baking powder
  • 6 mL (1¼ tsp) ancho chili powder
  • 2 mL (½ tsp) cinnamon
  • 1 mL (¼ tsp) nutmeg
  1. Preheat oven to 175°C (350°F). Grease and flour a 9 x 13" pan
  2. In a large saucepan, melt butter. Remove from heat and stir in sugar, eggs, and vanilla. Beat in cocoa, flour, salt, baking powder, and spices.
  3. Pour/spread batter in prepared pan and bake for 25 - 30 minutes until a toothpick inserted in the centre of the brownies comes out clean.
Nutrition Info (per 3 × 3¼" slice): 313 calories, 16 g fat (11 g saturated), 111 mg cholesterol, 38 g carbohydrates (2 g fibre, 26 g sugar), 4 g protein, 258 mg sodium. A good source of vitamin A, folate, manganese and selenium.

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Last Day in New York: Williamsburg and Chelsea Market

Monday, March 16, 2009

United States Postal Office
The gigantic post office I saw on the way to meeting Ezra after his day at CUNY

It was a cold day on Monday the 2nd in New York, and also the day that Ezra was off to his admissions exams, interviews, meeting the Dean, and sitting in on a class at CUNY. Since he was going to be there until 5 pm, I had most of the day to explore, so I called up a friend who's living in Brooklyn and made a mental note to make my way to Chelsea Market.

After a filling breakfast at Murray's Bagels, he headed off to his appointment at 11, while I had some time to kill before I had to be in Williamsburg at 12. I walked around Loehmann's for a bit before heading down to the metro station, where I came upon these (and more) cute little figurines:

Cute Statuettes @ 14 St Metro Cute Statuettes @ 14 St Metro Cute Statuettes @ 14 St Metro

Finally, I hopped on the train to Williamsburg, where I was supposed to meet my friend, Kevin. Kevin was my news editor at the Tribune back in the day, and now he works crazy hours (4 pm - 12 am, Wed - Sun) at the foreign news desk at CBS.

I didn't get to spend a lot of time with Kevin, as he was planning to return home to Long Island to see his family for the "weekend", and it was freakin' cold so it wasn't really good for walking around and exploring. I got to see his apartment, including the roof and the penthouse suite, which happened to be unlocked. The website is right - there's "one heckuva view" of Manhattan.

Kevin hadn't eaten anything yet, so we headed to Urban Rustic, a grocery/café that specializes in organic, locally produced foods. Kevin goes there so often that he knew the cashier by name.

Since I was still full of bagel and tofu spread, I just ordered a vegetable soup which was a little too salty, and he ordered a panini with a carrot-apple-ginger juice. Throughout the meal, he kept on saying he knew he would regret having ginger in his juice, but he finished it anyway.

After that, we went to Buffalo Exchange, where I bought a blouse, and he bought two T-shirts. Then he walked me back to the metro station and I hopped on the train back to Manhattan. Specifically, Chelsea Market.

Chelsea Market

My experience with markets in the past have mostly involved going through rows and rows of little stalls hawking fresh vegetables, fruit, free-range, grass-fed meats, or freshly baked goods. Although Chelsea Market looks big on the outside, the area for regular customers is disappointingly small. I tried taking an elevator, which only spat me out at the NY1 offices, and the other (which I'm assuming leads to the Food Network studios) was guarded by security.

What I was able to see was still beautiful - one of the first places you'll notice coming in on 9th Ave is Eleni's, a bright pink and white little store with display cases and shelves filled with intricately decorated cookies and cupcakes. At the time, it was Oscar season, and they had cookies decorated with the faces of the Best Actor and Best Actress nominees that I recalled being featured on Serious Eats. I desperately wanted to take pictures of my own, but knowing that I wasn't going to get anything, I didn't.

Right next to Eleni's was Fat Witch, a bakery that specializes in brownies. They were all wrapped up nice and tight, so I bought two - The original Fat Witch and The Breakfast Witch for our bus ride back to New York the next day. We didn't end up eating them until days later in Montreal.

Fat Witch Original Brownie Fat Witch Original Brownie
Fat Witch Breakfast Witch ("The Witch Bakes at Dawn") Fat Witch Breakfast Witch ("The Witch Bakes at Dawn")


The original Fat Witch was an excellent brownie - rich, chocolaty and fudgey. A little sweet, but good just the same. I did enjoy the Breakfast Witch a lot more - not as chocolaty, but not as sweet, and the oats and walnuts gave great texture. Yummy, but probably 300 calories a pop (the first ingredients are butter and sugar)

I passed by Amy's Bread, which has an average-sized storefront, but a gigantic kitchen with glass walls so passersby can watch all these bakers knead and shape dough in one room, and load and unload giant convection ovens in the next.

I also popped into Buon Italia, an Italian grocers that had lots of different kinds of olives and nuts, as well as 5 kg (that's 11 lb) jars of Nutella. I personally am not a Nutella fiend, but I know some people in my life who are.

Chelsea Market Baskets totally reminded me of Le Panier back in Pointe-Claire on the West Island (Jess took me there once to put a basket together for my mom for Mothers' Day.) but obviously with a different product selection. They had a whole section of New York-themed stuff, as well as a corner with Food Network stuff, in addition to the usual kitchen/home/kids assortment.

I was still pretty full from all the eating I'd done already, but was determined to try something at the Ronnybrook Milk Bar. A little flustered as I quickly scanned the menu, I ordered the Mac & 3 Cheeses. I neglected to order something to drink, but when the lady behind the counter brought me a placemat and cutlery, she also brought me a glass of water, which I thought was a really nice gesture.

Then the food came.

Mac and Three Cheeses @ Ronnybrook Milk Bar

The bread was also a pleasant surprise, though I was so full that I could barely finish a slice. Lightly toasted, it wasn't just any marble bread, but flecked with fennel seeds that gave the bread a fresh licorice taste. Yummy.

But the Mac and Cheese...

Mac and Three Cheeses @ Ronnybrook Milk Bar

...was simply delicious. It wasn't too heavy and the cheese wasn't overpowering or too salty, like processed cheeses can be. I was glad that there wasn't *too* much, though it's so rich it would be satisfying for someone hungry too.

The Milk Bar also had an impressive dairy case, with milk in glass bottles (no pesticides, antibiotics, or hormones!) and homemade yogurts, cheeses, and ice cream.

Dairy Case @ Ronnybrook Milk Bar

Although I'd wanted to go to Union Square again to see if I could get a vegetable peeler, I decided I didn't really want to take the metro again so started on my way to meet up with Ezra. But not before I stopped in at Morimoto to have a look at their menu. We'd passed by a couple good looking Japanese restaurants in New York, and thought we'd get some good sushi before heading back to Montreal on our last night. The menus were conveniently placed in the area between the two doors separating the hostess station from the outside, so I was able to flip through it without someone breathing down my neck or feeling pressured to eat there. While the lunch menu is actually pretty reasonable, I decided that the dinner menu was a little out of our budget and focused more on "fusion" cuisine, and less on sushi.

We didn't end up going for sushi that night, but we ended our trip to New York on a good note. Ezra just got accepted into NYU, so we might be going back sooner than you'd think ;)

Urban Rustic
236 N 12 St
Brooklyn NY 11211
(718) 388-9444
Urban Rustic Market & Cafe on Urbanspoon

Chelsea Market
75 9 Ave
New York NY
(Contact info for individual stores at website)

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